Model S: NVH Guide

The 2021+ Tesla Model S (aka P2) is a great car with amazing tech. One thing it is not known for is excellent NVH (noise, vibration, harshness).

This is meant to be a complete guide to solving common NVH issues. Some things here are common and annoying, and some only bother the most noise-sensitive people on the planet.

If you have something you'd like to contribute please let me know.

Issues

This is currently a work in progress list of NVH issues I have encountered, most of which affected every Model S I've owned.

• Small clicks at slow speeds when turning
• Bash Plate creaking
• Hood clicking over bumps
• Seat creaking (2024+ Sport Seats) 🔊
• Center console vibrations
• B-pillar temperature-based creaking
• Rear seat latch rattle / creak 🔊
• Muffled dash rattle (frunk skirt)
• Glovebox door rattle
• Dash rattle (under dash liner)
• Dash Speaker Grille rattle
• Rocker rattle
• IP decor dash rattle
• Rear airwave assembly air vent vanes 🔊
• Rear camera harness rattle 🔊
• Door and dash rubbing together squeak

Components

Below are the 3mf files used to print the shims, wedges, and other components used to solve issues here.

Small clicks at slow speeds when turning

Description: Sounds like a small creak from the lower front end of the car when driving around or making turns at parking lot speeds.

Should only affect 2021 - 2023 Model S and Model X. Largely went undiagnosed for 3 years, making many service technicians believe that creaking/clicking from the front end of Model S and Model X is unavoidable and unfixable.

THE FIX

Apply Service Bulletin: Tighten Front Frame Rail Bolts

Bash plate creaking

Virtually every Every Model S and Model X starts to have clicking and creaking caused by debris getting between the frame and skid plate somewhere around the 4000 - 6,0000 mile mark. It progressively gets louder over time, turning from a series of clicks to a full on creak.

In July of 2024 Tesla updated the bolts and torque spec which made it quieter, but did not resolve it fully. One downside of this currently is that service technicians are misdiagnosing it because it no longer sounds the same.

The hallmark sign of bash plate creaking is when parked turning the wheel/yoke lock to lock slowly with hold mode disabled (tap the brake, observe (H) go away). When doing so you will hear clicks that sounds like they are coming from the dashboard area. From outside of the vehicle it sounds like it is coming from under the car just behind the wheels.

THE FIX

It is a very easy fix: Telsa will under warranty remove the skid plate, clean it, insulate it, and re-install it. You may need to repeat this every 1-2 years.

Hood clicking over bumps

This issue sounds like a quick and mild tick/click when you first get in the car and turn the wheel, or when you go over bumps.

The bolt that is used to determine the resting height of the top end of the front hood is metal on metal and can cause this.

THE FIX

Place a small piece of insulation or a door rubber bump on the top of the bolt to insulate it.

Seat creaking (2024+ Sport Seats)

The new Plaid Sports Seats that were introduced in 2024 exclusive to the Plaid are excellent. One drawback, is that after the break in period if you have the seat bottom angled up the frame components can start to rub and "catch" causing popping/clicking noises as you move around.

THE FIX

Under the seat near the front there is a bar with 2 plastic assemblies gripping the bar. When you sit down, downward pressure is applied, causing the plastic to "turn" around the bar causing the noise. Apply grease or PTFE lubricant in this area. Be sure to get both of them, one on each side.

Center console vibrations

The design of the center console for the S/X have huge tolerances, particularly for the lid. When going over rough patches of roads or bigger bumps the lid and sliding components can vibrate in their track guides.

Some may consider this an expected rattle – and to be fair it's not huge. But it's not something you have to deal with on the much cheaper Model 3 and Model Y.

Here is a video demonstrating the large amount of play in the guides:

THE FIX

I've developed essentially two components to solve this:

1. shims that go in the sliding compartment guides that prevent lateral movement
2. a wedge that goes under the phone dock that applies downward pressure on the sliding lid, preventing it from rattling up and down

Here is a photo of the wedge installed under the phone charger:

B-pillar temperature-based creaking

WIP

Rear seat latch rattle

The rear seat latch and striker are notorious for a very loud and persistent rattle. I've personally never driven a 2021+ Model S that didn't have this problem.

Here is a video courtesy of sonoma1043 on youtube demonstrating the issue:

THE FIX

Unfortunately even after 5 years of production and one model refresh (P3) there is no great permanent solution to this. Tesla service will adjust the striker up or down which can greatly reduce it, but at least for me, it always comes back, and doesn't remove the rattle entirely.

Others have tried to create shims that apply pressure between the seat and the striker, but that also did not last long for me or others I know.

The best bet is some gaffers tape wrapped on the striker. You may need to reapply occasionally as the latch will eat through it. I've found that lathering the gaffers tape in Krytox once it's in place significantly helps with longevity. The downside of this solution is that it's much harder to put the seats down as you have tape gumming up the interface.

Muffled dash rattle (frunk skirt)

WIP

Glovebox door rattle

The glove box door when closed is not securely and firmly pressed against the trim/glovebox housing. When going over rough/coarse patches of pavement the glovebox door can vibrate against the housing/trim causing a rattle that sounds like it's coming from the passenger footwell.

THE FIX

I've applied foam to each edge of the inside of the glovebox door which makes it far more snug and prevents it from vibrating.

Dash rattle (dash liner)

WIP

Dash speaker grille rattle

On particularly rough roads the front speaker grille has enough play in it that causes it rattle. To verify it's coming from the speaker grilled you can press down on the speaker grille with your hand. If it stops you know it's causing it.

THE FIX

There are two ways to fix this:

1. Tesla service can insulate it for you. The downside of this is that it requires completely removing the dash to get to it.
2. Buy and install the speaker grille wedges

Rocker Rattle

The rocker panels at the bottom of each side of the car are essentially plastic which interfaces directly with the under body metal, and it's a bit loose. Sometimes when getting out of the car you can hit it and it'll give out a loud reverberation.

THE FIX

Place a very thin piece of foam between the rocker and the metal body. Keep inserting them along the entire side, starting at the center of the door, until it no longer reproduces.

IP Decor Dash Rattle

On the passenger side, the shiny black strip behind the instrument panel can midly rattle against the dash that goes over the top of it. You can confirm this by:

1. pressing on the shiny black instrument panel decor near the passenger air vent and confirm it no longer rattles
2. you can also reproduce it by gently hitting the panel above the glove compartment and observe a mild rattle coming from the IP decor above it

THE FIX

Insert a small shim between the instrument panel decor and the dash. This applies pressure on the decor piece, preventing it from rattling.

Rear airwave assembly air vent vanes

The louvers/vanes that direct the airflow in the airwave assembly (vents above the rear screen) can have a small amount of movement which can cause a pretty loud rattle on event decent roads and small bumps:

THE FIX

Apple a small amount of felt tape to all four vanes in the airwave assembly. It should be enough to secure the vanes from moving in position, but not enough to restrict the orientation change when adjusting airflow.

In my case, it was only coming from one of the vanes (the second one from the left).

Rear Camera Harness Rattle

The rear camera cable harness that goes through the liftgate frame can cause a rattle/vibration sound that comes from the very rear of the car when going over mild bumps.

While it sounds a bit different with the rear liftgate trim removed and triggering it this way, you can understand what it sounds like a bit more muffled:

When driving it's heard as a vibration/reverberation from the rear of the car when going over bumps. It is difficult to hear it in this video over the road noise but it's present:

THE FIX

Remove the lower liftgate trim and secure the camera cable (I believe that's what this is) using some strong tape. I used gaffers:

Door and dash rubbing together squeak

In the Model S there is very small tolerances for the clearance between the edges of the front dash and the door trim. Very often at least one side will have the dash and door rubbing together.

For me, it sounded like my door trim was a bit loose and going over bumps it would make some noise. After further inspection, it was these two areas rubbing together, catching, and "popping" as a bump would overcome the built up tension between the two.

Service centers can re-align the dash and potentially fix this, but it may not work or may introduce new problems.

THE FIX

Carefully cut to size and apply felt tape to both sides and apply. When the correct size there is no visible felt when the door is closed.

Alternatively, there's a decent chance carefully applying Krytox to both sides would be less visible (when the doors are open) and still work.